![]() The first time I was fiddling with the set-up, I noticed some splotches in my results, and I figured out it was from a lamp bouncing its light off the negative. Check out the video above to see what it looks like.Įverything just stays more centered, and the sides block out ambient light. I created one out of cardstock using an exacto knife to cut an opening for the negative and two slits to string the negative through. I always keep one handy to wipe off my negatives to prep them for scanning. I subsequently used it at a newborn shoot on my Nikon F100 and was thrilled to have it in my arsenal. I walked out of there spending less than $50, and it was exactly what I needed. Just to tell you how awesome they are, the sales associate talked me OUT of the lens I was looking at to sell me a cheaper lens that does everything I need it to. I cannot recommend them enough! I love getting gear from them, and I want them to stay in business for a very long time, so I love helping others discover them. ![]() They ship orders over $50 free, and they have a great warranty and customer service. You’re stuck with such a narrow focus range and getting it lined up for the negative to fill the frame and get it in focus was killing the whole project. (Am I even a real photographer?) I did have extension tubes, so I tried to use those, and it was a disaster. You don’t want part of it blurry just because you didn’t spring for one of these bad boys.Īny bump in the camera will mess this process up, so do yourself a favor and use one. Yes, you can level things out in post, but, really, you need the entire negative to be in the same focus plane. Once again, super cheap and makes a huge difference. I’m just going to look away while you order one, and, in two business days, we can pretend like nothing ever happened. I’m going to assume you already have one of these, but if not, I’m not going to shame you. The pixels were extremely obvious in the shots, even when I tried placing something to filter the light over the screen. I tried using my iPad at first with just a blank, white screen, and it was NOT good. I just bought one on Amazon for like $20, and it was worth every penny. If you have one of those fancy, newer DSLR cameras I bet your digitizing will turn out waaaay better than mine. I figure it’s of more value just to have access to it. It’s also a Nikon D700 (circa 2010), and I don’t think I would get more than $50 if I tried to sell it. I kept mine because I use it a couple times a year for our church directory shots. I know quite a few fellow film shooters who up and sold their DSLR. Some of you might be tapping out already. It’s going to sound like a lot, but you most likely already own the more expensive items and others you can purchase relatively cheaply. Let’s start by addressing what you need to do this process. These are very annoying issues to have and why I have been hoping for some sort of alternative to try. You can only scan small strips at a time, it’s slooooow, and, when scanning C-41 film, I can never get the color how I imagine it. It’s a workhorse I’ve owned for more than a decade. So, what do I do when I want to scan sprocket holes or 120? I have my trusty Epson v600 scanner. (Some of you might think #2 is a HUGE flaw, but honestly, I really, really love 35mm film and making it my primary medium is no issue for me #unpopularopinion.) It only has two flaws: It doesn’t scan sprocket holes, and it doesn’t scan 120 film. It can take in and scan an entire roll at once, is extremely fast, gives me great results, and has saved me a ton of money over the years. I am fortunate enough that I have a Noritsu LS-600 (read: super swanky scanner) for my 35mm film. If you click on a link and make a purchase, Shoot It With Film may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.
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